Autumn is the season when chestnuts are celebrated on Mount Amiata, a fruit that for thousands of years was the main source of sustenance for its inhabitants.
In October, in every village the old cellars open their doors, and narrow streets fill with people, music, and the aroma of roasted chestnuts and mulled wine.
Between one festival and another, in cellars and food stalls, it is possible to taste traditional dishes—those once prepared with whatever was available, whose simplicity has been passed down through time.
Lilia, Carla, and Nino have rediscovered many of these recipes and brought them back to life in the book Maremmans at the Table, together with many other typical dishes from the Maremma region.
One dish you will certainly find at the various chestnut festivals is chestnut polenta, often served with fresh ricotta, smoked herring, fegatelli, or whatever else was available at the time.
Chestnut Polenta
Preparing chestnut polenta is simple, but achieving the right consistency and smoothness requires experience. The three Maremmans describe it as follows:
Ingredients: 1.5 liters of water, 350 g of chestnut flour, salt, and fresh ricotta for serving.
Method:
Bring the water to a boil in a copper pot with a little salt. As soon as it boils, add all the chestnut flour at once. The water will boil around the flour without completely soaking it. Let it cook for about 20 minutes, then remove the remaining water, stir the polenta, and gradually add back the previously removed water until the desired consistency is reached. Let it boil for another couple of minutes, and the polenta is ready to be served with fresh ricotta.
There are many villages on Mount Amiata where, over the coming weekends, it will be possible to enjoy chestnut polenta and other traditional chestnut-based dishes.
The celebrations begin in Arcidosso, which from October 14 to 16 and from October 21 to 23 hosts the 30th edition of La Castagna in Festa. Also from October 14 to 16, Abbadia San Salvatore celebrates chestnuts with the Festa d’Autunno, while in Vivo d’Orcia the Mushroom and Chestnut Festival takes place, and in Bagnolo (Santa Fiora) the Amiata Mushroom Festival is held.
On October 30, Campiglia d’Orcia hosts the Festa del Marrone, while from October 28 to November 1 in Piancastagnaio the 50th edition of Il Crastatone takes place.
Chestnut celebrations conclude in Santa Fiora on November 5 and 6 with the Sagra del Marrone.
Traveling from one festival to another is a great way not only to taste mushrooms and chestnuts, but also to discover the true spirit of the Amiata villages.lages.
